Symbolisation of phaneks



Phaneks embroidered with hijam mayek, are said to be used by women belonging to the Luwang Salai (clan). According to some, it was thought to have been worn only be widows. Married women do not use it on auspicious occasions as it is associated with widowed women. 



In the past, women wore phaneks depending on the Salai or clan they belong to : Ningthouja-light red colored background crossed by red and black stripes; Angom-white and black stripes; Luwang –blue background, and light coloured blue and black stripes; Khuman- indigo background and black and white stripes; Khaba nganba- black stripes on yellow background; Moirang- pink stripes on light-yellow background; Chinglei-light red and white stripes etc. They were once used to indicate clan status but now-a-days they are freely wore by everyone. People belonging to the Yaithibi clan (lowest social status) used violet colored clothes. Even if other clothes of different colors are used, a patch of the given color must be attached or a head band having this color must be used by them. Widows must use pumngou phanek.
Reference - Manipuri Costumes Through The Ages (Manipur, Bangladesh, Myanmar)  by Mutua Bahadur

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